Epilogue

Japan is an incredible place to visit. It makes such a change to be somewhere without the same stores, selling the same things as everywhere else.

It’s a fascinating country, the Japanese people are delightful. They are extremely friendly, inquisitive, helpful and respectful to us, each other and nature. Everywhere is so clean, perhaps because it is frowned upon to eat in the street in most places.

We have really only scraped the surface by visiting the tourist areas to get a taste of Japan (the name of our tour package) so I can understand why people come back time and time again. If the tourist areas are so interesting and different, then, once you get off the tourist trail and go further afield it must be an extraordinary experience but one we might not be able to cope with due to the language barrier.

Pretty much everything went smoothly and according to plan so thanks to Jacquie of Bakewell Travel for organising everything so well. For the mobile Internet, without which I couldn’t have written this blog, for all the train and transport passes and for the event tickets. It would have been impossible to organise such a complicated trip in such a very foreign land ourselves.

Everyone who’s been to Japan had said the country runs like clockwork. It doesn’t, it’s better than that. It runs like an atomic clock. Absolutely everything, everywhere ran on time to the minute (and the bullet trains all eight of them, to the second). If a store has a sign saying ‘opens 10.00’, it opens at exactly 10.00 (with a friendly bow) and we didn’t have one single delay, hitch or disappointment in the entire two weeks.

…. Then we arrive at the airport – flight delayed due to late departure from London. 🤣🤣🤣. Our flight, just short of fifteen hours, arrived in London one hour and forty minutes late plus the plane ran out of water for the last few hours ‘due to the long flight’. Has BA had never flown a plane back from Japan? Did it really not know how long it would take? Perhaps they do it on purpose to give us a reality check. 😩

We flew back the other way – east to west – over Alaska and the Artic circle, so we actually completed a circumnavigation!

As we disembarked I found myself bowing to the flight attendants! New habits…

I haven’t mentioned this before but one of the things we will miss about Japan are the sounds. Like everything else in Japan, they are aesthetically pleasing. When the lights change at a road crossing, instead of a harsh beeping to hurry you along, little birds chirp to invite you to cross, sometimes it’s a cuckoo*

Each train station has its own jingle that sounds like fairground organ music. We can only think that perhaps it’s for people with impaired vision so they know which station they have arrived in?

When you’re on a train, prior to each announcement a xylophone will play the first five notes of ‘I’m sticking with by you’ by the Velvet Underground. At least that’s what it sounds like to me, which explains why it’s become my constant earworm.

Even airport trolleys do away with irritating beeping to warn you of their presence..,

…and replace it with irritating video gaming music. 😀

*The Japanese would NEVER cross a road unless the green man is showing. They will wait and wait and wait, even if the road is only two metres wide and you can see for miles that there is nothing coming, they still wait.

Second hand shops-

We were wondering why there were so many second-hand shops in Osaka selling what looked like brand new, very high-quality goods. Usually ladies goods, like handbags, dresses and watches. We’re talking Hermes handbags, Piaget watches, Versace dresses for example.

It turns out that there is a certain type of lady who befriends wealthy gentlemen and, shall we say, ‘entertains’ them. It also turns out that it is not the done thing to accept money for providing this ‘entertainment’ so they ask their gentlemen friends for ‘gifts’.

The gentleman buys them something expensive to express their appreciation, and the lady immediately legs it, as fast as her restrictive kimono will let her, down to the second hand shop, sells it for cash and presumably goes out and buys herself a slap-up fish and chip supper, with all the trimmings, to celebrate.

Hence all the second-hand shops.

We’re really happy we saw Fuji-san as it’s respectfully called. They also call it the shy mountain as it so often hides behind the clouds. We were told we would see it yesterday from the train but it was hidden in the mist, so we were really lucky to see it when we visited Hakone.

As you may have gathered, we weren’t especially keen on the traditional Japanese breakfasts, but that’s purely because it could not be more different from what we are accustomed to. We have, however, discovered a whole different world of flavours and food textures that we have never experienced in Europe. Some, such as umenoshi (pickled plums), that turned our faces inside out, but many of which were really enjoyable.

The other thing we won’t miss is the Tokyo subway system. It highlights just how good the London underground system and its map are.

I don’t know how Brigitte will cope with being back. She has had no wine for over two weeks! That is surely a record for her and all because of sake. Such an interesting drink and probably as complex as wine to get to grips with and understand.

In Europe you just order ‘sake’ and drink what you’re given. The word ‘Sake’ actually just means alcohol. There are so many variations that we (I) just had no idea about. I’m sure I’ll bore some of you about it when we’re back but one interesting fact that we both agreed on is that that, unlike wine, we didn’t find a single sake we didn’t like (and we probably tasted over 25 varieties) They all tasted good in their own way, whereas often you’ll try a wine that you don’t personally like. I have no idea why this should be but I have a theory about acidity.

Regrets

The Japanese love vending machines, you can get almost anything from a vending machine. Especially in Tokyo where you can put money in a vending machine and out pop meals, umbrellas, ice-cream, cake, there’s even a car vending machine – yes, really.

But the one I never saw, although I know it does exist, my holy grail of vending machines, was the one that dispenses – bananas. It was a bitter disappointment to nit have found it. 😂

And finally….Toilet talk

I couldn’t end the blog without talking toilets. For me, this is the game changer. I know they’ve been around for years and we do have a few around the place and people coming back from Japan talk about them but why aren’t they shouting from the rooftops??

And why is it only the Japanese that have them everywhere? (or are they?) and why did they invent them? (or did they?). Do they have particularly dirty derrières or are they just a particularly clean race in the botty department?

All know is that they are amazing, my bottom has never felt so clean and refreshed – I’m going to become a Japanese toilet ambassador and lobby Parliament to have them installed in all public buildings. It’s the future!

So that’s it, our Japanese adventure, like all good things has come to an end. we’ll miss everything about Japan except the breakfast and we both feel like we now need a long holiday to recover!

…and if you’ve made it all the way to the end of our journey with us… Arigatō, mata ne.

Day 5 – Hakone

Thought for the day: People with really low tables shouldn’t place them between the bed and the bathroom at night. – Ouch!

…and Ouch again on the way back!

We woke up this morning smelling of sulphur from bathing in our private Onsen last night which has hot mountain spring water continually flowing into it.

I’m not sure which is worse, smelling of sulphur or fish?

Dave (see yesterday) seemed irritated with me. I could tell because her voice, usually the same deferential volume of all Japanese service people which, at its highest level, is barely audible, had become a medium whisper. Plus she was gesticulating at my feet.

I finally realised that it was because I was wearing my slippers in the room. It seems that you are only supposed to wear them to go out! Completely the wrong use of slippers in my opinion but I’m here to learn.

Also, where are my real shoes? I’m worried Dave may have confiscated them.

Breakfast, once again, was quite baffling. I know one of the dishes was raw tuna with shredded onions which was okay, there is a bowl of tiny whitebait/eels with grated daikon in the middle surrounded by what I can only describe as fishy jelly-like things. At the top you can see a bowl of fish and vegetable soup heating on an open flame. Some sour pickles on the left hand side, tofu in the middle and a soup with some baby clams and rice. There was also a rice porridge which was like cold rice and water.

Then Dave came back with kippers, or something similar which is what we actually ate for breakfast, with the easily identifiable kiwi and orange.

I know it’s beautifully presented, aesthetically pleasing food and some of it is absolutely delicious. I’m trying everything put in front of me but, surprisingly, Brigitte is becoming more squeamish as the food becomes more bizarre. Maybe our European breakfast food prejudices around eating raw fish before 8am are too firmly entrenched to embrace Japanese breakfast.

Dave has become quite chatty now that we have introduced Google voice translate and we have found out that a western breakfast is available so we have ordered that for tomorrow. God only knows what they think we eat for breakfast but hopefully it’s not raw fish.

Enough fishy tales. Good news, I can see from our Apple tags that our suitcases have arrived in Kyoto! We just need to find our way there tomorrow to meet up with them.

Today we went on a pirate ship. It sounds tacky but it was actually a really nice ship. As part of our travel package, we have a Hokone travel pass which allows us to go almost anywhere in the area on any method of transport and pirate ships arr included. (Ha-ha – that really was an unintentional misprint that became a pirate joke!!) – ‘To err is human, but to Arr is pirate’.

We decided to upgrade to first class so we could use the upper deck for £3 each – they didn’t mention about that option in ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ did they?

The cruise was across Lake Ashi to Hakone Machi, a small town at the bottom of lake. One of the local arts here is marquetry where they make beautiful wooden items, especially boxes using inlaid wood. All the colour is natural, no wood stain is used so the colour variations come from the species of wood used.

The other speciality here are intricate inlaid wooden boxes made using the same techniques, which can only be opened by moving/turning/sliding parts of the boxes. They usually have a sequence of between 4 and 20 individual movements before they will open, but they have one which has 324! How you could you ever remember how to open it is a mystery.

I bought one with 14 movements and I’m hoping someone has posted the solution on Youtube or I just bought an expensive wooden cube.

We bought quite a lot of things, paid by card and then realised we needed a bag. The lady told us they were 5 yen each and she only took cash. 5 yen is around 0.03pence and the smallest we had was a 1,000 yen note but there was no way she would let us off – good to know there’s probably a Japanese word for ’jobsworth’.

We ate lunch (avoiding all unidentifiable raw fish), and had an amble around, did some shopping, took a bus to the next village, Motohakone, did more shopping then made our way to the famous water gate of the Hakone shrine.

On our way, we came accross the best exterior restaurant food display we’ve seen so far….

Just take a closer look at the realism of the display. Zoom in and look at the ’custard’ in the centre right. It all actually looks quite appetising.

Here’s a picture of Brigitte and I underneath the shrine gate…

Okay, you’ve probably caught me out there but there was a queue a mile long so we couldn’t be bothered to wait.

Here it is from the water so sailors knew where to come and buy their luck. (See day 2)

Then it was back on the pirate ship ‘me-hearties’ and back to our Ryokan for siesta before a no-doubt fishy supper again.

Hakone is a beautiful area. It reminded me a bit of the English lake district but with volcanic activity and different foliage. Two full days here is ample, unless your a hiker and want to get out onto the mountain trails.

Many people come to Japan and never see Mount Fuji, it’s often covered in mist and cloud. A bit like tourists going to see the northern lights.

However, we were really lucky and had clear skies and sunshine so it was a magnificent ever-present sight looking down on us.

On the way back to the Ryokan the bus driver got even more annoyed than yesterday after I didn’t have the tickets that he’d seen only five minutes previously when we got on ready to show him. I took both our tickets out of my wallet and he grabbed them off me, gave one to Brigitte, one to me and shouted ‘one at a time’ in broken English!

Dinner time again at the Ryoken.

Another beautifully presented raw/pickled fish-fest. Sorry, there was another two courses I forgot to photograph of beef stew and sake molted rockfish. So much food. So much fish.

I’ve never been pretentious about food and I’ve eaten sushi and sashimi many, many times and always thought it’s okay, occassionally very good but rarely amazing. I thought this holiday would teach me differently but I’m even more convinced that this type of food is more about style than substance, or flavour for that matter. Most raw white fish has very little taste, the flavour comes from the soy or wasabi. It’s purely about texture and I think I’m more of a taste person. The taste here seems to come predominantly from the pickles served as an accompaniment. The pickles, unlike subtle acid flavours in European cooking that balance, clean, contrast or compliment the main food, are the main flavours of the meal so what’s the point of the main foodstuff?

There, I’ve said what I think. Is this a controversial opinion? Am I mad not to enjoy it or am I just not understanding the subtlety and nuance of the food if there is such a thing. I know my pallet has spent sixty five years exposed to European cuisine and maybe that’s the reason, maybe I just have a poor pallet or understanding but to me food is, of course, about texture but even more about the overall mix of flavour. Of course, I realised that of I am correct it’s purely from a European perspective as the Japanese, Koreans etc must love their food equally to the way we do. It’s just that our ingredients and preparation methods have evolved differently over the centuries. I also love Teppanyaki, Teriyaki (‘Yaki‘ means cooked), I’m just talking raw fish – sashimi, sushi etc.

Let me know if you agree or if you think I’m a food Neanderthal. Or maybe it’s a generational thing? It would be interesting to know if I need re educating or secretly others think the same. Don’t worry, I can take the criticism.

In think I have created a poll so you can vote. If the link doesn’t work just copy and paste it into your browser and vote. It’s all anonymous and I’ll tell you the results tomorrow.

https://strawpoll.com/polls/NPgxEodEoZ2

And in other news…

We did initially think that it was a great idea rolling up the bed and gaining a room. However we just got back to our room after a lot of walking for a siesta. No bed 😩. Not such a great idea.

I think Brigitte really likes the fact that everyone here bows to her. What she’s not yet figured out is that the Japanese are just a very polite society and bow to everyone, she thinks it’s just her. 😂

Katie asked in the comments if tattoos really aren’t allowed in the communal springs and yes, it’s absolutely true. In Japan tattoos we’re a sign of gang membership so they were frowned upon and still are in many places.

Toilet roulette-Update

Just when I thought I’d mastered 4-6 button toilet roulette, the odds have been upped. We now have a….wait for it…. 15 button toilet. Maybe this is the king of roulette toilets.

I was determined to conquer it so I sat down, nervously.

The red button is obviously the ejector seat, flinging you backwards into a pit, like the chair on the Graham Norton show.

The second one seems to be what I call the ladies front bottom shower, a.k.a. the testiclé tickler. The third is your common all garden bottom wash. The first slidey buttons seem to increase or decrease jet pressure. The fourth is temperature, maybe? From experience, a cold jet of water can be quite a shock in the morning depending upon the exact point of impact. It also seems to have a timer function. I remember my grandmother saying it was always good to be ‘regular’ but to be able to set an advance timer would display incredible bowel training. I had no idea what the other buttons did so I enlisted the help of google camera translate so you can figure it out yourselves:

Amazing device isn’t it?

Well, that’s all for another day. Tomorrow we set off, bright and early, for Kyoto and more adventures.

21:13 – 10th May – Hakone